Harlem , which stretches from the top of Central Park to the 140s, has long been synonymous with racial conflict and urban deprivation, though as a visit will reveal, that's only part of a much bigger picture, one often simplified and jaundiced by some media hostility to the black culture here. Though Harlem has its problems, it's a far less dangerous neighborhood than its reputation suggests, especially in light of solid city and neighborhood improvement efforts as of late. If you intend to tour Harlem, it will serve you well to feel comfortable about where you're going beforehand, stick to the well-trodden streets and be relaxed once there.

Continuing northwest, Hamilton Heights is largely residential, with an old Federal-style mansion. Further uptown, Washington Heights is a patchy neighborhood with little in the way of attractions. You still want to pass through because the Cloisters Museum , a mock-medieval monastery that holds the Metropolitan Museum's superlative collection of medieval art, lies very near the top end of the island.