The bargain that still can't be beaten, even more so now that the fare has been eliminated, is the free Staten Island ferry (tel 718/390-5253), which leaves from its own terminal in lower Manhattan's Battery Park. It's a commuter boat, so avoid crowded rush hours if you can; at other times, grab a spot at the back (going out) and watch the skyline shrink away. Departures are every 15-20 minutes at rush hours, every thirty minutes midday and evenings, and every hour late at night - weekend services are less frequent.